Setting up the pipe work for the drip system is fairly quick and easy. Make sure you have a kettle on standby as every barbed fitting you push over rigid plastic pipe needs to be heated in hot water first. This makes the pipe hot and so expands allowing the barbed fitting easily slide over, when the pipe cools it sets around the barbs making it a good water tight fitting. With the compression fittings the blue insert is barbed and is then tightened by screwing the sheath to the cap. I start the pipe work at the far end with the stop end. The piping in then cable tied to the support bar all the way along. From the support bar the the supply tubes goes through 3 elbows and up to the filter set in the 220L reservoir.
Once the supply tube is in place and attached to the filter set I can start to install the drippers. Using the hole punch I cut out the holes carefully.
Once the hole is cut get the pre assembled dripper and insert it into the tube. You should hear a 'click' as it goes in. Once in pull the compensator back while squeezing the supply tube. This will help form a tight seal. I use 1 dripper per plant some growers use 2 or more but this is not necessary.
Now all the pipe work and drippers are in place I now position the plants on the trays. I am using 2 plants per tray in the middle and 3 plants per tray on each end. Last year I put 3 plants in every tray and I found the plants in the middle of the system did not do well as the were mostly in the shade.
Once I get the spacing and positioning right on the upside down slabs I mark out with a permanent pen on the slab bag where the drainage slits will be cut. I also mark on the aqua tray where the plants will get placed.
When I cut the drainage slight I'm careful not to cut into the rockwool slab. The drainage slits need to be diagonal and between plants not underneath them.
Once the drianage slits are cut its time to flip over the slab. You may notice I have cut the slit to fill the slab at the top of the tray instead the bottom. This is not a big mistake, all I have to do is flip the slab round so the horizontal slit is at the drainage end. Once the slab is flipped it will drain some more.
When the slab stops dripping its time to plant on. I cut an X on the slab and lift up the flaps. The plant is then placed on the slab and about 200ml of nutrient solution is poured through each block. This will be the last irrigation they get for 3-4 days as the slabs and blocks hold all the solution they need.
Over the next 3-4 days the roots will find their way into the slab and a light twist of the block will show you how well the plant is rooted in. In 1 week it will fell very solid on the slab and the drippers will go in to start irrigating the slabs. I will also make a cover for the catchment tank to prevent algae growth.
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Hanging above the drip system is 2 x 400w metal halide lamps. The lighting system I am using is the 'Aurora Gemini' with 'Rising sun' reflectors. This system has 2 ballasting units in one case. The unit also has a built in contact relay so all I do is set the timer on the ballast and plug it in using 1 plug. Save on valuable plug points and is neat and tidy. The lighting extends the day length to 14 hours of light coming on at 7:00am and off at 21:00pm
Setting up the pipe work for the drip system is fairly quick and easy. Make sure you have a kettle on standby as every barbed fitting you push over rigid plastic pipe needs to be heated in hot water first. This makes the pipe hot and so expands allowing the barbed fitting easily slide over, when the pipe cools it sets around the barbs making it a good water tight fitting. With the compression fittings the blue insert is barbed and is then tightened by screwing the sheath to the cap. I start the pipe work at the far end with the stop end. The piping in then cable tied to the support bar all the way along. From the support bar the the supply tubes goes through 3 elbows and up to the filter set in the 220L reservoir.
Once the supply tube is in place and attached to the filter set I can start to install the drippers. Using the hole punch I cut out the holes carefully.
Once the hole is cut get the pre assembled dripper and insert it into the tube. You should hear a 'click' as it goes in. Once in pull the compensator back while squeezing the supply tube. This will help form a tight seal. I use 1 dripper per plant some growers use 2 or more but this is not necessary.
Now all the pipe work and drippers are in place I now position the plants on the trays. I am using 2 plants per tray in the middle and 3 plants per tray on each end. Last year I put 3 plants in every tray and I found the plants in the middle of the system did not do well as the were mostly in the shade.
Once I get the spacing and positioning right on the upside down slabs I mark out with a permanent pen on the slab bag where the drainage slits will be cut. I also mark on the aqua tray where the plants will get placed.
When I cut the drainage slight I'm careful not to cut into the rockwool slab. The drainage slits need to be diagonal and between plants not underneath them.
Once the drianage slits are cut its time to flip over the slab. You may notice I have cut the slit to fill the slab at the top of the tray instead the bottom. This is not a big mistake, all I have to do is flip the slab round so the horizontal slit is at the drainage end. Once the slab is flipped it will drain some more.
When the slab stops dripping its time to plant on. I cut an X on the slab and lift up the flaps. The plant is then placed on the slab and about 200ml of nutrient solution is poured through each block. This will be the last irrigation they get for 3-4 days as the slabs and blocks hold all the solution they need.
Over the next 3-4 days the roots will find their way into the slab and a light twist of the block will show you how well the plant is rooted in. In 1 week it will fell very solid on the slab and the drippers will go in to start irrigating the slabs. I will also make a cover for the catchment tank to prevent algae growth..JPG)
Hanging above the drip system is 2 x 400w metal halide lamps. The lighting system I am using is the 'Aurora Gemini' with 'Rising sun' reflectors. This system has 2 ballasting units in one case. The unit also has a built in contact relay so all I do is set the timer on the ballast and plug it in using 1 plug. Save on valuable plug points and is neat and tidy. The lighting extends the day length to 14 hours of light coming on at 7:00am and off at 21:00pm
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