This hydroponic system is one of my favorite systems to use in the greenhouse because its so easy to set up and takes very little care and attention to maintain it. 'Autopot's' come in 2 variations, the 1 pot system (pictured left) and the 2 pot system (i will set up later this month). The 1 pot can be set up to one small reservoir or you can link up multiple pots to one larger reservoir as i will be doing here. The one pot module consists of a square 15l pot, base tray and lid, one 'aqua valve', 1.5m 4mm flexible tubing and 2 root control mats.
The autopot is a simple yet clever method hydroponic growing. The 'aquavalve' lets nutrient solution fill the base of the pot to a depth of 20mm, once it has filled to 20mm the valve shuts off. The plant will then use the solution in the base of the tray until there is none left, once all the solution is used the valve refills the tray to 20mm again. The is all done without the use of electricity and you dont need any pumps. This system is described as 'plant driven' as the plants uptake drives the irrigation.
The autopot comes with very clear instructions that are easy to follow. One very important factor in setting up is making sure the aquavalve is set properly. The picture shows 2 valves, the one on the right is set correctly while the one on the left is not. You can tell by the the way the float is sitting lower on the left valve than the right. To set the valve simply pull back the top float and remove the yellow rubber, clean it and push it back in firmly. Job done.
Once the valves are set attach the 4mm tubing to in and fit the valve in the base tray by allowing the raised tee on the base to sit in the half moon recess on the valve. This will allow the valve to sit securely in the tray. I'm connecting 4 Autopots to one 1ooL reservoir although this size reservoir could feed up to 10 pots without a problem. The reason i use a large reservoir is so i can leave if for long periods without having to keep topping it up. To connect to 4 Autopots to the tank i use 3m of 13mm flexible pipe, a 'Hoselock' tap connector, two 13mm>4mm 'X connectors' and one 13mm flow control tap. In the picture you can see the Hoselock connector attaches to the tap on the reservoir which is attached to the 13mm pipe. The 13mm pipe runs between the pots with the 'X connectors' in position to connect the 4mm tubing from the aquavalves to the 13mm pipe. At the end of the pipe i fit a flow control tap and keep it closed, i will occasionally open this tap at allow and residue build up in the pipe to be flushed out. Notice the reservoir is raised on a stand to use gravity to increase the pressure to the valves.
Now the pots are connected i place the root control mats in , the copper one goes in the tray copper side up and the black one goes in the pot. On top of the black mat in the pot I put a layer of clay pebbles about 3cm deep. This will stop the very base of the pot from getting waterlogged. On top of the clay pebbles i use a mix of coco coir and perlite (20% perlite to 80% coco coir). I am growing a variety of chilli in the autopots called Joe's Long. These have been propagated in rockwool blocks. On planting I bury the bottom third of the block in the coco/perlite mix as shown in the picture.
To finish it off i fill the top of the pot with clay pebbles and cover the rockwool block with a block cover. These pebbles on the top of the pot will help to insulate the pot and will stop the top layer of coco/perlite mix getting dried out by evaporation from the sun or grow lights. Once the plants are in i hand water them from the top with Canna's coco A+B at an EC of 1.6 and a pH of 5.8. These plants will get hand fed from the top for the next 2-3 weeks until i'm sure the roots have made their way throughout the entire pot and the plant is ready to be fed through the valve at the bottom. If you start by feeding from the bottom straight away quite often the plants small root system cannot cope with the saturated growing medium and will get off to a slow start. By hand watering every 2-4 days for a few weeks you will get the plant ready quickly for bottom feeding. I have filled the tank with nutrient solution but have kept the tap on the bottom of the reservoir closed, this way i can top feed the plants with a jug out the reservoir when they need it.
Cant wait till I've got some lovely long hot chillies in a about 3 months time. I find chillies and peppers the best plants to grow in Autopots, although I've had good success with melons, and tomatoes too.
Interesting to see that you hand water for the first few weeks. In my opinion, too many growers activate the Aquavalve before the plants have become established. This really slows the plants down. I find low humidity can be a problem in this early stage. Do you have any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteHi there, your right by activating the aquavalve as soon as your plant has been transplanted to the autopot will slow the plants early growth. This is because although facilitation ocurrs through capillary action up through the media in the pot (in this case coco coir)there will always be less at the top because of gravitional pull. Therefore there is greater saturation at the bottom of the pot, this generally isn't a problem as there is enough moisture and air for the roots. It can however be a problem when the plants are very young and don't have well established roots that are able to find the adequate moisture. This problem is exacerbated when the atmospheric environment is unfavourable such as low humidity and too warm. This is because the plants will transpire more to cool down by evaporation. This requires the plant to pull more water into its roots, if there is insufficient water in the root zone the plant will wilt and die. similarly if the plant requires more water than nutrients it will leave nutrient behind, this can accumulate and cause toxicity to your plants. you can check this by flushing your plants through with your nutrient solution from your resevoir and collecting the run off. if the ec is greater than what your are putting in the plant requires more water and a lower nutrient concentration. Humidity is relative, this means hot air has a greater volume and can hold more water vapour, cool air has a lower volume and holds less water vapour. If there is a certain ammount of moisture in the air at 25 degrees C and the air becomes warmer then that ammount of moisture will be less concentrated in the air because the air has expanded and so humidity % will have decreased, if the air cooled and contracted that same ammount of moisture would be more concentrated and so increase the humidity%. This brings me to my point, you have two options to increase your humidity, either lower the temperature or put more water vapour in the air. you can do this by buying a mist maker from our shop. hope this was helpful please feel free to ask more questions.
ReplyDeleteit's look useful. you made a small system, can i use this technic for a big garden?
ReplyDelete