To all that follow this blog, i am sorry that i haven't been able to update my posts for a hell of a long time. This summer has been a busy time for the company with hollidays and staff change. Lots has happened in the greenhouse but i will try and update you with some of the more important stuff.
I will be allocated more time, more frequently to spend updating the blog too keep you more up to date with what's goin on.
Setting up an NEF Ebb and Flow / Flood and Drain system with Pablo Beetroot 05/05/08
I have added a thin layer of large 8-12mm clay pebbles to allow for better drainage.
I dug a space in the seramis to fit the peat pellet, in a staggered arrangement for maximum growth space and covered it back up with the seramis.
After nearly two weeks the beets are showing rapid signs of growth.
Setting up an Amazon aeroponics system with perpetual spinach 20/05/08
The amazon took two years of development by company Nutriculture to bring to the market a reliable product of top quality that gives high end aeroponic results at an affordable price. Aeroponics offers an optimal ratio of oxygen, water and nutrient to the plants roots which allows for rapid growth, promoting high yields. It is simple to set up and i will show you how.
Lets begin with the base. Everything will be stacked upon the base so make sure it sits on even ground, do this accurately using a spirit level or by seeing whether water builds up at one end or is evenly spread in the bottom. The base is also the nutrient reservoir and has a 50 litre capacity. Make sure the lowered groove/lip is towards the back of the tank as this is where the next tier will sit, allowing you room at the front to mix your nutrient solution.
The next teir is the base of the root chamber. It has two holes at either end, the larger should be facing the back of the system as it is a drain hole. The smaller hole at the front is to allow the delivery tube to connect to the pump.
Next we sit the already assembled delivery tube and sprinklers in the raised grooved beds to hold the in position for an even delivery of solution to each plant site, it is raised to prevent root mass building up around them and blocking them.
Twist the 'tail' end of the delivery tube so that it fits through the small hole in the base of the root chamber and hangs into the nutrient reservoir.
Here we connect the pump to the delivery tube. I have used an extra piece of standard 1/2" hose pipe to lengthen the delivery tube so that the pump sits flat against the bottom of the nutrient reservoir and gets the maximum usage out of the tank.
Now we can place the lid on top. Here you can see this is an eight site Amazon but there are 4, 8, 16, 32 site lids, and now you can double the ammount of sites with the brand new Twin Amazon that shares a nutrient reservoir (keep updated as i will post a blog on this new system soon.
Here is i have covered the amazon in black and white, this helps reflect light and heat to prevent an overly warm nutrient solution as the greenhouse is already warm. However you may want to add a water heater if you need to control your temperature.
There are two sizes of holes in the Amazon lid that hold either 1.5" net pots or 3" net pots. The 1.5" net pot sized holes are ideal when using an aeroponic propagator such as the x-stream aeroponic poragators as you can simply propogate and grow a fully mature plant without transplanting into a larger sized pot. However there is also a 3" net pot sized hole and is ideal for larger sized plants with greater root growth and stem size.
I will be growing a perpetual spinach in the amazon which i have germinated in 1.5" fleximix blocks, but for demonstrative purposes i will show you a simple method of how to transplant either a 1.5" net pot or grow cube such as rockwool, fleximix or jiffy peat pellet.
Simply insert the 1.5" net pot, fleximix, rockwool, jiffy into the 3" net pot and fill the side gaps with seramis (as pictured) or small 4-6mm clay pebbles as these are small enough to fill the gaps without spilling out of the net pot. They also provide excellent drainage preventing any rotting around the stem.
This is a picture of the sprinklers in action, they spin round supplying an even spread of nutrient solution to the roots keeping them moist but allowing maximum aeration for a fresh supply of oxygen to the roots.
Keep updated as i will post new blogs on the spinach's development.
Here we connect the pump to the delivery tube. I have used an extra piece of standard 1/2" hose pipe to lengthen the delivery tube so that the pump sits flat against the bottom of the nutrient reservoir and gets the maximum usage out of the tank.
Simply insert the 1.5" net pot, fleximix, rockwool, jiffy into the 3" net pot and fill the side gaps with seramis (as pictured) or small 4-6mm clay pebbles as these are small enough to fill the gaps without spilling out of the net pot. They also provide excellent drainage preventing any rotting around the stem.
Keep updated as i will post new blogs on the spinach's development.
Wind burn 03/05/08
Leaf burn usually starts with signs of upward curling of leaves. Then there are similar signs to nutrient burn with browning patches and around the edges of the leaf, deformed growth patterns. To stop further wind burn effects i am going to move the fan to another area of the greenhouse. To prevent anything like this happeneing predict the growth of your plants when deciding on positioning of a fan.
Aphid pest problem 12/04/08
Ripening tomatoes 08/04/08
The tomatoes have begun to ripen, the green chlorophyl in the fruit begins to dissipate allowing the red pigments to show through. As well as red pigments coming through, i noticed some yellow speckaling. It is not well understood why this occurrs but it is known that increasing the difference between potassium (K) and phosphorous (P) from nitrogen (N) will reduce the speckaling. I added a bloom boost additive that is made here called vitalink buddy, i applied it at 1ml per litre then added my general bloom nutrients till i reached the correct EC.
In the later stage of ripening sugar production (brix formation) is concentrated in the fruit. The sugar attracts water to the fruits cells by process of diffusion, this causes the fruit to become ripe, juicy and sweet tasting. As the fruit matures, the pectin which holds the cells together begins to break down, the cells are not so structurally strong and so the fruit feels much softer.
This bunch of tomatoes are fully and evenly ripe, they are big, colourful, sweet and juicy.
Chilli and Pepper Training 23/03/08
The chillies and peppers have grown to a decent height now and will need to be supported. The reason most chillies and peppers need supporting is because they have been selectively bred for the heaviest fruits despite not being able to support themselves naturally.
When supporting chillies and peppers i use string made from polythene as it doesn't absorb or hold any moisture. This quality prevents any micro habitats for bacteria and mould to breed in increasing the likel
ihood of plant infection.
I start off by looping the string around the stemp of the plant just before the bification of the stem where it splits into two. I tie a knot around the string itself rather than tight up to the plant. This way of tying allows the loop to expand without coming loose. This means as the stem thickens the loop will not restrict growth.
I start off by looping the string around the stemp of the plant just before the bification of the stem where it splits into two. I tie a knot around the string itself rather than tight up to the plant. This way of tying allows the loop to expand without coming loose. This means as the stem thickens the loop will not restrict growth.
Tomato training 20/03/08
The picture of the floridity tomatoes in the NFT system shows how vigorous the growth has been. In order to cope with the rate of growth from the plants they need to be maintained and trained.
When the tomatoes have grown too tall for their support they are lowered by releasing
As i lower individual plants i also move the support spool to the next hanging site. In effect this causes the plants to coil round at the base. With the lowering of the stem foliage at the bottom of the plant builds up at the base of the plant, this foliage is removed by cutting leaf stems as close to the main stem as possible, this will allow the plant to heal most efectively reducing the risk of infections.
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